Inviting The Bell

Little can prepare you for a first time experience of a 21-Day Mindfulness Retreat at the Thich Nhat Hanh Center in southern France.

Plum Village, as the three main Hamlets are known, are monastic centers where Buddhist monks, nuns and laymen alike share Thay’s (the Teacher’s) vision for a peaceful world in an idyllic setting where time seems to stop.

On this occasion, A Real Soulmate of the Buddha Retreat, hundreds of people speaking many languages, of diverse cultures and faiths gather to practice and then spread the Teacher’s Fourteen Mindfulness Trainings and wisdom by way of countless Sanghas (communities) across the world.

Thay’s work began with the civil war in Vietnam and inspired, among others, Martin Luther King’s dream of peaceful, integrated communities across the US. He was nominated for the Nobel Peace Prize and after being exiled from his country set up home in France from where he continued to spread his teachings.

While not a practicing Buddhist, averse to organized religion and slightly at odds with the fatalistic negation of self that Buddhism preaches, I can fully appreciate Thich Nhat Hanh’s insight of bringing light into a troubled world by way of local cells rooted in community and powered by laymen in all walks of life.

I meet Lisa, an Israeli teacher working in a Palestinian school just next to the Gaza wall. She speaks of the horrors she witnesses each day but also of the hope she can bring to the children. I hear the thoughtful sharing of Murray, an English vet who is studying how to ensure that sheep are not suffering and working tirelessly to promote compassionate animal husbandry. I listen to Annette who is excited about her work in Cologne and the crucial importance of the European Insitute of Applied Buddhism in Germany.

Here there is a clear sense of  worldwide community that reinforces Thay’s teachings of interbeing in which we are all an inextricable part of the same web of life. Although the retreat is in English, all Dharma talks, meditations and practices are translated into six languages via simultaneous translators who volunteer so as to make sense of this tower of Babel.

The monks and nuns are of many different nationalities as well and while they have chosen the more difficult path of total dedication to the Buddhist way of life, they are essential in spreading the teachings of the Zen master.

Although 91 years of age and presently living in Thailand after having suffered a stroke in 2015, one can feel Thich Nhat Hanh’s larger than life presence in the daily meditation walks, in the toll of the bell and the dense silence of the sitting meditations, as well as the many ceremonies that intensify the energetic power of this large gathering.

His teachings are nothing more than universal truths that speak of oneness but  his ability to translate these into words and then to use these words to elevate consciousness is unique. The monks who spread his word do it in a way that reinforces his desire not to be idolized or regarded as anything more than a wise teacher whose teachings neverthless should be eternally questioned.

In the large Dharma Meditation Hall which at times seats more than 700 people, the angelic voice of a Buddhist nun calls you into the present moment. Sometimes there is a lonesome cello or violin and at others a guiding voice that takes you into the realm of inner being. You can hear a pin drop across the room when the chant subsides. The elevated energy of meditative bliss is powerful and as you surrender to it, you easily slip into that place of ultimate healing.

On the other hand, when all these participants are in their heads, as it often is the case of those who are lost in the suffering created by the mind, the energy is dense and heavy.  Not used to such large numbers of human beings confined to a relatively small space, I feel the resistance that comes up and by day three my immune system is depressed and I’m running a fever.

These energy shifts are palpable and I use the upswing that comes with a group meditation or deep relaxation session to come back into balance. What a fascinating experience validating the power of energy and self-healing!

Mindfulness at Plum Village is practiced at the sound of a bell. A soft ping is followed by the deeper and longer toll. The bells’ sound, deep or soft is the cue used to bring you into the present moment.

All activity stops as attention comes to the vibration… and resumes once it has died down. Noble Silence in place from 9:30pm until after breakfast and always at mealtimes allows for stillness to permeate the ancient property.

The only sounds are those of birds singing, frogs croaking in the pond and the soft rustle of the tall poplars swaying in the breeze..

The beautiful lotus pond with budding flowers sits in the middle of a mulberry grove, like the numerous bamboo groves a tribute to the birthplace of Buddha in Lumbini, Nepal.

There are tucked in spots for meditation under every tree and in the lovingly tended to gardens.

On the outside, the stunning French countryside beckons. There is time for long  walks and quiet contemplation.

When one comes from a busy world with many distractions, it is hard to be still for such a long time. No internet, no phone and daily doses of solitary walking among the fields of wildflowers, wheat and lush vineyards of the Bordeaux region is not always an easy task.

The mind rebels and finds motives for suffering. It takes practice to bring it back into the present moment and recognize the illusions it creates, so as to come into balance. Then it is possible to connect with oneself and to explore an inner existence that lies hidden beneath the chatter of the mind.

In the tiny ancient churches of the French countryside I connect with those who paved the way for my spiritual awakening.

Sister Thanh Y’ is the head of our Upali or bathroom cleaning family. The pretty soft spoken smiling Vietnamese invites the bell at meal times and initiates sharing sessions that precede our one hour service meditation at the end of each day. As we gather in the shade of a bamboo grove to enjoy in silence the delicious vegan meals, words are often unnecessary.

During the afternoon and in between scheduled gatherings there are interesting connections happening everywhere as people share, releasing suffering and exchanging stories. Many are inspired to create such a Sangha in their own community and so the network expands.

On a beautiful sunny afternoon we walk in silent meditation to Son Ha, a monastic residence below the Upper Hamlet.

There under a majestic tree, Christians, Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims, Jews and atheists listen enraptured to a magical rendition of  Ave Maria. It is truly the spirit of oneness that reigns here.

While Buddhism focuses on overcoming suffering to attain Nirvana, “No mud, no lotus….”

….Thay’s teachings are centered on the joy and peace one feels when guided by the principles of compassionate listening, loving speech and gentle living. Here where there are many pain bodies together seeking shelter in the teachings, this aspect can sometimes be lost, so there is always someone to remind you that the best way to reach Nirvana is to listen to your own inner wisdom. This is Thay’s legacy, no dogmas, no idols, only the deep connection that transcends all divisions, of class, race, faith or gender.

The mindfulness practices are designed to keep us in the present moment, the only moment there is to enjoy life. They are intended to create that connection with the feelings of understanding, love, peace and contentment, through breath, stillness of the mind and deep gratitude.

Gratitude is the word suspended over the cermonial altar in the Great Hall. Beneath it a chorus of monks chants the Heart Sutra. Like the other words depicted in Thay’s calligraphy of inspiration, it emanates the vibration of a world without divisions, without wars, without hatred or fear.

As the Sangha cells multiply Thay’s legacy continues to paint his vision of universal peace. This summer’s retreat for families sold out within 4 hours of the opening of its registration. The disappointment of realizing how far we have gotten behind the western world in terms of quality of life and social harmony in spite of the massive refugee problem Europe (Paris and more on this in my next post…) faces, gives way to a glimmer of hope. Ultimately through mindfulness the power of love will defeat the love of power. I can sense it here.

A soft ping precedes the deep sound of the tower bell. Time stops. As I breathe in, I know I am breathing in. As I breathe out, I know I am breathing out. Deeply rooted in the present moment, I know it is a wonderful moment.

Thank you, dear Thay!