Month: February 2018

Prayer flags fluttering in the wind are the lasting image of Nepal.

The sutras that are inscribed upon them transcend Buddhism, Hinduism or Jainism. They speak of compassion, wisdom and love. Nepalis of all creeds ultimately follow the same path, that of Bhakti Yoga, the way of devotion.

Religion is the foundation of Nepali life.  Concepts of Buddhism and Hinduism mix with elements of Animism and Shamanism creating a rich and colorful blend of faiths.

Buddhists and Hindus can be seen praying at the same temples. And here, unlike in neighboring India, Hindu and Muslim communities coexist peacefully.

The life of a Nepali Hindu is guided by ritual.

In the polytheistic temples pilgrims make religious offerings, pray for  blessings or simply come to show devotion.

There are many gods, countless attributes of the divine.

There are the old elemental gods such a Surya the sun, Agni fire or Indra the god of rain. And Garuda, the legendary bird-like creature found in Hindu, Jain and Buddhist mythology.

Then there are the omnipresent ones such as Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma.

And in  between there are the consorts Parvati and Saraswati and their multiple manifestations…

…the Taras, Hanuman, Kumara and Ganesh and many many more.

Each has their devotees who bring daily offerings of flower petals, rice and sweets.

This is the ritual of Puja performed usually in the morning so as to assure an auspicious day.

Here like in India Sadhus, Hindu ascetics who have renounced worldly life and embarked on a personal search, offer Tika a symbol of blessing placed at the third eye chakra center acknowledging divine presence.

Buddhism is practiced mainly by the people of the high Himalayas. A philosophy rather than a religion it is based on following an eight fold path that leads to nirvana or enlightenment. As in Hinduism life is a cycle of birth and rebirth and karma.

While Buddha who incidentally was born in Nepal did not want to be idolized,  under the influence of Hinduism about 1000 years after his death different types of images began to adorn the Buddhist temples or gompas.

Tibetan Buddhism has four major schools as well as the ancient Bon pre- Buddhist  animist beliefs.

Over 10% of Tibetans in exile live in Nepal.

They are devout Buddhists and their presence in Kathmandu can be felt around the giant stupa Bodhnath…

and Swyambhunath the monkey temple.

Here they can be seen spinning prayer wheels and circumambulating the massive stupas under the watchful eyes of the Buddha.

Prayer wheels are spinned as an act of devotion.

Mani stone walls inscribed with Tibetan mantras…

adorn the entrances to the mountain villages.

 

And prayer flags rooted in pre-Buddhist beliefs have become the most recognized symbol of Nepali Buddhism.

Shamanism, with its ancient healing traditions is practiced by many mountain people. Ceremonies call upon dieties and offer them sacrifices as acts of dedication and acknowledgement that there is a higher realm of spirit, of cause and effect.

All Nepalis have a devotional attitude towards the landscape and in this inspiring scenery it is easy to understand why.  Many mountains, rivers and lakes are sacred. Macchapucchare, the unclimbed peak, is a reminder that here Nature is god.

As I stand in awe of its marvelous creations I cannot help but feel a deep sense of Oneness surrounding and permeating my whole being. And with a final bow I depart this beautiful country.

Until we meet again…

Namaste

 

 

 

 

 

The 75 miles that separate Kathmandu from Syabru-besi are rough and adventurous. From Syabru it is only 30 minutes to the border with Tibet but from the capital the bus ride takes 8 hours or longer.

The narrow winding “highway” that ascends into the Langtang region is  interrupted by frequent landslides…

and every so often we stop to help push some unfortunate vehicle stuck in the mud. I can only imagine what this looks like during monsoon season.

But like most Nepali roads, the views from here are spectacular.

The winding Trishuli River begins to recede into the deep gorge below as the bus stops for yet another checkpoint.

As we approach the Lantang National Park, guards with the WWF logo come on board to check papers and luggage for possible animal parts being trafficked into China. Happy to see my dollars going towards a good cause…

The park covers 660 sq miles and is home to leopards, musk deer, red pandas and

…Langurs.

About 40% of its revenue goes to support the villages located in the buffer zone.

As my guide Nima Kaji Sherpa and I begin that day’s 2400 ft climb from Syabru I start to feel the weight of my backpack.

This time it’s just the two of us. Kaji like I likes to walk in silence and often disappears from view only to appear a few hundred meters later to show me a medicinal plant or some odd creature. His grandfather taught him the secret healing powers of nature and he is happy to share.

The stone path climbs vertically up the sunny mountain…

then winds through a dark forest…

and comes out onto another valley…

We go down 4500 ft…then back up…

and so on…

The little villages along the Tamang Heritage Trail are quaint and colorful…

…everyone busy with their tasks…

Going up and down these same paths…

they carry their provisions and goods for sale…

take their animals out to pasture…

…or just visit one another, moving along at a slow steady pace.

We pass terraced fields of millet, barley and mustard.

 

Most of the villagers are Tamangs, however many of the guesthouse owners are Tibetan and they play an important role in tourism.

Tibetan influence can be seen everywhere, from the small Buddhist monasteries or ghyangs…

stupas and prayer flags…

to the Mani walls…

The Tamang follow Tibetan Buddhism but mix it with animism. Their priests or lamas play an important part in their lives, however the most important person in society is the shaman who interacts with the spirit world and treats illnesses.

Langtang was the region hardest hit by the earthquake and during the 8 days we are there, I see only two other westerners. In Gatlang, one of the larger Tamang villages, all of the guesthouses are empty but their owners are always happy to prepare a dal bhat for the occasional trekker on his way to another stop.

Tatopani was known for its high altitude hotsprings but the earthquake dried those up.

As we continue to climb towards Nagthali the views become almost surreal,

Ganesh Himal at 24,373ft showing its sharp snowy contours…

…further to the east Langtang peak appearing majestic above the clouds.

At 12,000ft we are looking into Tibet.

And while down below there are constant political tensions here there is a deep sense of peace.

The prayer flags inscribed with the mantras which promote peace, love, strength and wisdom are blown by the winds spreading good will and compassion to all.

 

 

 

 

Babita Tamang likes to draw. A smart 6 or 7 year old, she is one of the 100 young ones at the Sri Aurobindo Yoga Mandir.

Like her most kids here only know their approximate age. Coming from all kinds of situations, they end up at the Ashram where they are cared for and offered a multi dimensional learning environment.

They are the lost (and found) children of Nepal.

Orphanages in Nepal often get a bad rep as places where children are explored for money by unscrupulous individuals who seize this opportunity to collect donations. But here I see only love.

The Ashram founded by Swami Ramachandra Das, a one time street urchin himself, has a mission: “To replace pain and ignorance with divine peace, knowledge and bliss by the growth of consciousness.”

Many of the children are in fact orphans, others come from abusive homes or difficult situations that push them into the streets or into back breaking jobs with seemingly no escape.

The Ashram located on the slopes of the Chandragiri Mt. above Kathmandu has a beautiful and bountiful organic farm, a dairy, comfortable housing and a school where the children are taught often by volunteers who come to help out.

Sandrine and Annie are here from France for a month. Annie is a teacher so in addition to French lessons, she is teaching a class on bullying.

I take on the trash situation with the 4th and 5th graders while talking with the younger ones about the importance of preserving the natural world in Nepal.

In addition to teaching the children self sustenance through farming, weaving, herbal incense production and naturopathy, the Mandir gives them a safe place to grow.

Daily meditation and chanting practices as well as music and dancing provide opportunities for holistic development.

While all yoga paths lead to the same destination Karmayoga, the one of unselfish action, is the yoga practiced here. By serving others and allowing that service to be the greatest realization of all, one transcends the ego. This is the path of those like Veda, the young principal who grew up here and now gives his time and energy to the little ones.

In another part of Kathmandu is the Shining Stars Home . Smaller and initially a result of the Maoist insurgency that left many children without families or homes, Shining Stars has older mostly teenage children some of whom will remain here through adulthood. Raju who has Down syndrome loves to dance and really makes a show of it. It is heartwarming to see how he is embraced and encouraged by his peers and mentors.

photo by Arazu

VSN the Nepali non-profit which established the Home also supports other projects in disadvantaged communities. This time with the help of the Bamboo group it has provided volunteers to rebuild a school wall in  one of the villages near Pokhara.

On the other side of the Kathmandu valley lies a center for a different kind of practice  – Raja Yoga better known as Ashtanga. While the photo sells an image geared towards the western crowd, the teachings here are very formal and strict as to structure and sequence.

This month Dr. Chintamani is training a large and diverse group of aspiring yoga teachers from as far as Poland, France, the Netherlands, Germany and even Brazil. Nepal Yoga Retreat also offers multi day programs for trekkers looking to relax and restore before continuing the journey.

Humbled by my stay at the Ashram and centered by 6 intense Yoga and Pranayama sessions at the Retreat, I long for yet another kind of practice – Jnana. The goal of Jnana is to realize the divine oneness inherent in all beings. It requires quiet reflection.

As I embark on yet another journey, this time to the border with Tibet, I look forward to the solitary meditative walks through the Langtang Himalayas.